Ah, the Camargue! A name that instantly conjures images of white horses galloping with manes in the wind, pink flamingos taking flight over shimmering ponds, and “gardians” (herdsmen) proud of their traditions. But this unique land, nestled between the Rhône River and the Mediterranean Sea, is much more than a postcard. It’s a soul, a strong identity, an art of living where humans and nature coexist, sometimes harshly, but always with passion. Get ready for a journey where authenticity reigns supreme, where bulls are kings (and respected!), and where every village has its story to tell.
In this article, we’re taking you on a journey to discover:
- The very essence of the Camargue: its contrasting landscapes, between wild marshes, rice paddies, and beaches, and the incredible pride of its inhabitants.
- Traditions unique in the world: the famous Camargue race (where the bull is the star, not the victim!), the wild “fêtes votives” (votive festivals), and life lived to the rhythm of the “manades” (bull and horse farms).
- Our favorite villages: from the unmissable Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer and Aigues-Mortes, to the more secluded Le Sambuc, not forgetting the gateway, Arles.
- Activities not to be missed: immersion in the Pont de Gau Ornithological Park, the magic of the pink salt marshes of Aigues-Mortes, and of course, the supercharged atmosphere of local festivals.
- Our tips for camper van travelers: because yes, we tell you everything, even when it’s a bit of a hassle to park 😉, and how to make the most of this wild region.
So, ready to fall under the spell of the Camargue? Follow the guide!
The Camargue, a land of contrasts between sea, marshes, and traditions
Nestled between the Rhône delta and the Mediterranean Sea, the Camargue is a unique region in France, renowned for its wild nature, its vast expanses of marshes, its pink flamingos, its white horses, and its black bulls. But beyond its spectacular landscapes, the Camargue is above all a territory of deeply rooted culture and traditions. Each year, the region attracts many tourists in search of authenticity, nature, and a change of scenery.
The Camargue lives to the rhythm of its environment: ponds, rice paddies, salt marshes, and beaches shape daily life. The inhabitants, called Camarguais, have always known how to adapt to this sometimes harsh nature. Their culture is manifested through livestock farming, fishing, local crafts, but above all through a strong sense of identity and respect for traditions, which has endured over the years thanks to its transmission to younger generations, who are happy to share this very strong identity in turn.
Unlike Spanish bullfighting, in the Camargue, the bull is not killed. Here, the flagship tradition is called the “course camarguaise” (Camargue race), a codified and deeply respected spectacle. This discipline features “raseteurs” dressed in white, who must snatch attributes (rosette, tassels, strings) fixed between the bull’s horns using a hook held in their hand.
The bull is the central figure, a symbol of strength and pride. Contrary to what one might think, the bull is extremely respected and admired.
Some, having become legendary like Goya or Vovo, are honored for life. They live in “manades,” traditional farms where they are raised semi-freely in the marshes.
The “fêtes votives” (votive festivals) in the villages, particularly in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer or Aigues-Mortes, are highlights where these races take place, but also “abrivados” (festive transhumance of bulls through the streets) and “bandidos” (return of the bulls to the pasture). These events, often accompanied by traditional music, “gardians” on horseback, and convivial meals, attract locals and visitors every year.
Whether one is for or against these traditions, one can only admire the fervor and passion that the Camarguais have for their region and their ancient traditions.
Must-see charming villages in the Camargue
The Camargue is a vast region made up of many villages, some more famous or larger than others, but all deserving a little detour. Here is our list of villages not to miss for a successful stay:
Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Spiritual capital of the Camargue, this emblematic village is famous for its Gypsy pilgrimage dedicated to Saint Sara, every May. This major event for the Gypsy community allows them to gather from all over France for a moment of joy and celebration.
The town is then packed like an anthill! If you’re looking for peace and quiet, this might not be the ideal time to visit!
In addition to its mystical atmosphere, you will find magnificent beaches, a fortified church overlooking the village, picturesque streets, and a lively atmosphere, blending Camargue traditions and sea air. An ideal base for exploring the surrounding nature on horseback or by bicycle.
Aigues-Mortes and its ramparts
Undoubtedly our favorite village!
How can you not fall under the charm of Aigues-Mortes and its old stones?
A fortified city with a fascinating history, Aigues-Mortes impresses with its perfectly preserved ramparts and its medieval heritage. It was from here that Saint Louis set off for the Crusades. In addition to its lively streets, the town offers a breathtaking view of the surrounding pink salt marshes, particularly magical at sunset. Don’t miss a walk on the ramparts, if you can!
The town center is very pleasant: you’ll find many shops and restaurants, as well as small artisans and “santonniers” (nativity scene figurine makers).
Take the time to sit on the main square and have a coffee (or something else 😉)!
We stayed there during one of our camper van trips, feel free to take a look at this travel video if you’re curious!
Le Sambuc
A small, authentic hamlet located in the heart of the Camargue, Le Sambuc is a perfect stop for those seeking calm, nature, and authenticity. Here, you are in the heart of the rice paddies, the “manades” (bull and horse farms), and rural traditions. It’s also a good starting point for exploring the marshes on foot or by mountain bike.
Arles
Although Arles is not strictly speaking a Camargue village, it is the gateway to the Camargue. A city of art and history, it is unmissable for its Roman heritage, its artistic atmosphere (notably the Rencontres de la Photographie), and its traditional markets. It’s also a good starting point for exploring the entire region and why not visit the city of Carcassonne.
We know Arles very well, having studied and lived there for a few years 🙂
Just like Aigues-Mortes or Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, this city attracts a very large number of tourists each year, especially during festivals, notably the highly renowned photography festival.
The best advice for visiting Arles: get lost in its narrow streets!
Unmissable and unusual activities to do in the Camargue
The Pont de Gau Ornithological Park
The Pont de Gau Ornithological Park, located about 4 km from Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, is a must-see destination for nature and wildlife lovers in the Camargue. Spanning 60 hectares of marshes, ponds, reed beds, and “sansouïres” (salt-tolerant vegetation areas), this park offers total immersion in the region’s typical landscapes.
You can observe more than 200 species of birds, including the emblematic pink flamingos, which find their only breeding ground in Europe here. Depending on the season, you can also see herons, storks, egrets, teals, raptors, and many small waders. The well-maintained trails allow for close observation of some species. It is also possible to climb observation towers or hides.
The trails are maintained and easily accessible for everyone. We had a pleasant time there.
The park also organizes workshops for children and adults: remember to inquire at the entrance for schedules.
The Aigues-Mortes salt marshes
Visiting the Aigues-Mortes salt marshes is like landing on another planet! This expanse of pink water as far as the eye can see, this calm, these smells…
Located at the gates of the fortified city of Aigues-Mortes, the Salins du Midi are a spectacular and emblematic site of the Camargue. These vast expanses of salt pans turn a vibrant pink in summer, offering a totally surreal setting, worthy of another world. This phenomenon is due to a micro-alga, Dunaliella salina, which proliferates in highly saline waters and gives this very particular color.
If you pass by, it would be a shame not to stop.
Several options are available for exploring them: by small train with a guide — faster, but also more crowded and less calm —, by bicycle (which you can rent directly on site), or on foot, undoubtedly the best option to fully enjoy the tranquility of the place.
Attend a votive festival or a Camargue race
If you are there in the summer, village festivals are major highlights: “abrivado,” “bandido,” music, bull games, communal meals… The atmosphere is very, very festive! 😀
Traveling by camper van in the Camargue: practical tips and tricks
The Camargue is a very touristy region and popular with motorhome enthusiasts and leisure vehicle travelers. For the experience to be successful, it’s always good to know the beginner mistakes (and not only) to absolutely avoid in a motorhome.
Let’s be clear: the region doesn’t do much to welcome us! Certainly, you will find two or three service areas, but it’s nothing spectacular…
As for parking spots for your visits, it’s the same! You can count them on one hand – when there are any!
Given the enthusiasm for the region, we hope it will make a little more effort and improvements, especially by the sea…
The most practical thing is to book a campsite or, even better, use France Passion! And yes, as you know, we love traveling with them: the guide lists many farmers and “manades,” perfect for combining discovery and a place to sleep! You can also help yourself find where to sleep with apps like Park4Night.
In summary, even if the welcome for motorhomes in the Camargue sometimes leaves something to be desired, this should not discourage you. With good road trip preparation and the right tips (like France Passion), you can fully enjoy this wild and authentic region. And who knows, maybe things will change for the better in the coming years… Fingers crossed!
