A road trip in Spain between sea, desert, and castles

Today we’re sharing our campervan road trip through northwestern Spain. A few-day road trip combining sea, desert, and castles!
Between the sea spray of San Sebastián, the mystical cliffs of Gaztelugatxe, the lunar expanses of the Bardenas desert, and the medieval silhouette of Olite, we discovered an unexpected, wild, sometimes almost unreal Spain.
Join us on the Basque and Navarrese roads, discovering natural and cultural gems accessible by campervan for an itinerary rich in contrasts and favorites!

Day 1: San Sebastián

Nestled between green hills and golden beaches, San Sebastián has always held a special place in the hearts of Spaniards. Founded in the 12th century, the city first developed around its fishing port, before becoming, in the 19th century, a popular summer destination for Spanish nobility. Queen Maria Christina, widow of Alfonso XII, even made it her summer residence, propelling San Sebastián to the rank of an elegant seaside resort.
Today, the city charmingly blends its royal past, its strong Basque culture, and a typical seaside sweetness of life.
Here’s a quick overview of what you can see and do in this beautiful city:

• Walk along La Concha bay: Considered one of Europe’s most beautiful urban bays, it’s a must-see. Stroll along its famous promenade lined with elegant lampposts and admire the Belle Époque villas.
• Climb mount Urgull: For a breathtaking view of the bay, climb to the summit where a statue of Christ stands. The climb, shaded and pleasant, offers magnificent viewpoints and leads to the remains of a fortress and the Mota Castle Museum.
• Stroll through the old town (parte vieja): Dive into the heart of the Basque atmosphere with its narrow streets, lively squares, and countless pintxos bars. We loved walking through this part of the city! It’s also the ideal place to savor a delicious paella!

The city is huge; we recommend spending an entire day there!

Regarding campervans, everything is provided! You’ll find a dedicated campervan parking lot outside the city, with a bus stop right at the entrance to take you directly to the city center. It’s also possible to spend the night there: it’s the Donostiako Autokarabana Aparkalekua parking.

Day 2 and 3: Bilbao and Gaztelugatxe

After our lovely visit to San Sebastián, we hit the road again, heading down to Bilbao.

A stop in Bilbao is a must. Long associated with its industrial past, the capital of Biscay has completely reinvented itself to become one of Spain’s most dynamic cultural hubs.

The Guggenheim museum is an architectural masterpiece by Frank Gehry. Its futuristic building with undulating metallic shapes is worth the detour alone. Inside, you’ll discover major contemporary art exhibitions, as well as monumental works in the outdoor space (including the famous Puppy, a giant floral dog, and Louise Bourgeois’ gigantic spider Maman).
The city has numerous museums and aims to be younger and more modern than San Sebastián.

A few kilometers from Bilbao, on the rugged coast of Biscay, stands one of Spain’s most spectacular sites: Gaztelugatxe. This strange name literally means “rock castle” in Basque. And indeed, it is an islet connected to the mainland by a narrow stone bridge, topped by a small hermitage dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. But what makes the place truly magical is the mythical path leading to it: 241 winding steps!

So, we’re not going to lie: the descent to access it is very easy, but the climb back up… hold on tight! Especially in the middle of summer, the effort is intense! But the panorama and the walk itself are well worth it.

The place is sublime, and it’s easy to see why it was chosen as a filming location for the famous series Game of Thrones. Fans will immediately recognize the iconic climb to the Dragonstone throne, and perhaps, like us, feel a thrill as they ascend the steps with the music playing in their heads!

Regarding campervans, beware, that’s where the problem lies! Unfortunately, nothing is provided for us to visit this beautiful place.

Our advice: arrive early to park further up, along the road, or try to find a spot in the tiny parking lot where we are allowed, just before the entrance.
For the night, we stayed in a sublime campsite with a breathtaking view. You’ll find many campsites surrounded by nature in the region, everything we love!

Day 4 and 5: The Bardenas Reales desert

Welcome to Navarre, in the heart of the Bardenas Reales desert, one of the country’s most astonishing natural sites.

A large part of the site is accessible by vehicle, including campervans, via well-maintained drivable tracks. The most famous area is the Bardena Blanca, with its lunar landscapes and its iconic formation: Castildetierra, a slender hill that has become the desert’s symbol.
Once on the tracks, take your time! Anyway, you’ll have no choice because even if the tracks are maintained, it’s bumpy! You won’t exceed 20 km/h!

Some practical tips before you start:

• Entry is free but regulated: access is prohibited at night and certain areas may be closed during military exercises.
• First, stop by the information center near Arguedas to get a map of the authorized tracks.
• The loop tour of the Bardena Blanca is about 35 km, perfect for a slow circuit by van or campervan!
• It is forbidden to bivouac in the desert itself, but you’ll find a very nice campervan area in the village of Arguedas, facing the troglodyte houses. We recommend visiting them in the evening, as they are illuminated!

Day 6: On the way back, Olite castle

Welcome to Olite! This small Navarrese village, ranked among the most beautiful in Spain, is dominated by the imposing Royal Palace of the Kings of Navarre, one of the most spectacular and best-preserved castles on the Iberian Peninsula.

The village itself is magnificent. Take your time to stroll through its narrow streets before savoring delicious pintxos!

Built in the 13th and 14th centuries, Olite castle was far more than a fortress: it was a luxurious residence for the court of Navarre. At the time, it was even nicknamed “the Versailles of the Middle Ages”, with its hanging gardens, royal zoo, and tapestry-decorated walls.

Today, its restored towers and ramparts can be visited freely or with an audioguide (very well done), offering a breathtaking view of the village’s red roofs and surrounding vineyards.

Regarding campervans, here again, we are very well accommodated. The town offers free day and night parking right at the entrance. The only drawback, if there has to be one, is that it’s not shaded!

A road trip rich in contrasts and emotions

This six-day road trip on the Basque and Navarrese roads comes to an end, and what memories! From the elegant saltiness of San Sebastián to the spectacular aridity of Bardenas, passing through the mysticism of Gaztelugatxe and the medieval majesty of Olite… if you’re looking for an itinerary that goes off the beaten path, easy to travel by campervan and that will delight nature lovers as much as history enthusiasts, then don’t hesitate!

We hope this travel diary has made you want to hit the road too. Feel free to ask us your questions in the comments!