There are roads that leave a deeper mark than others. In Norway, following the fjord route means agreeing to slow down, to look up at every turn, and to let yourself be surprised by a nature that constantly changes its face. Between steep mountains, waterfalls appearing out of nowhere, and villages nestled by the water, each stop becomes a real break.
During our Scandinavia road trip in a campervan, we explored some of the country’s most iconic fjords. From Flåm, famous for its panoramic train, to Gudvangen, at the heart of the UNESCO-listed Nærøyfjord, to the unforgettable Geirangerfjord with its dizzying viewpoints… not to mention Lærdalsøyri, a charmingly peaceful wooden village where time seems to stand still, which was actually our favorite!
We’re taking you on this spectacular stretch of road, ideal for exploring by van or campervan (see also our itinerary along the Swedish coast). A succession of magnificent landscapes, just like the gems we discovered in southern Norway, but also simple little stops, perfect for enjoying the Norwegian pace… especially when traveling with family.
Flåm, a sublime fjord but marred by mass tourism
Nestled at the end of the Aurlandsfjord, Flåm is often one of the first major visual delights when discovering the fjord region. Surrounded by steep mountains and waterfalls that seem to fall directly into the water, this small village attracts many visitors… and it’s easy to see why. However, beyond its very touristy image, Flåm remains a pleasant stop, especially if you take the time to stray slightly from the main quay.
During our visit in a campervan, we discovered a place that was both lively and deeply natural, perfect for a break between two great scenic routes.
We strongly recommend visiting this destination during the off-season because between the tourist buses and cruise ships that continuously pour in their crowds, visiting the village can very quickly become suffocating, even unbearable!
And that’s exactly what happened to us, August tourists! Despite the incredible beauty of the place, we felt overwhelmed and cut our visit to the village short.
What to see and do in Flåm in one day?
The Flåm Railway, the unmissable experience
It’s impossible to talk about Flåm without mentioning its famous panoramic train. The Flåmsbana connects Flåm to Myrdal, climbing through a spectacular valley, between tunnels carved into the rock and dizzying waterfalls.
It is imperative to book your tickets several months in advance, especially if you are coming in the summer.
It’s one of the steepest railway journeys in the world with incredible viewpoints accessible without hiking.
At the very back of the souvenir shop, you’ll find a hidden, free museum about the train and its history, a nice discovery as the museum is very well done and comprehensive; the children loved it.
Explore the fjord by boat
From the harbor, several excursions allow you to navigate the Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord. It’s clearly another way to discover the landscapes: from the water, the cliffs appear even more immense.
A little dip
In the village, there’s a large, well-appointed pebble beach with kayak rentals. Despite the water being far too cold for us, even in the middle of summer, we only dipped our toes. But if you’re braver, it’s the ideal spot for a quick swim and a picnic!
Gudvangen, the Viking fjord
Just a few kilometers from Flåm, the atmosphere changes completely upon arriving in Gudvangen. Here, the mountains draw closer, the fjord narrows, and you truly feel like you’re entering an almost surreal landscape. Located at the end of the Nærøyfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site, this small village is often associated with the Viking world… and for good reason: its wild setting seems straight out of a Norse saga, and most importantly, it’s here that you can visit the reconstructed Viking village.
Njardarheimr: Gudvangen’s Viking Village
One of Gudvangen’s unique features is its reconstructed Viking village, Njardarheimr. Here, you’ll discover wooden houses, costumed artisans, and an immersion into Norse culture.
You can watch demonstrations of traditional craftsmanship and even buy some, meet and chat with hundreds of enthusiastic reenactors in period costumes who embody Viking life.
The immersive atmosphere is incredible.
You can even dress up as a Viking and try many things included in the entrance fee, such as archery or axe throwing.
Geirangerfjord, breathtaking
A UNESCO World Heritage site, this sea arm surrounded by dizzying mountains is often considered one of the most beautiful fjords in the country… and once you’re there, it’s easy to see why. Between panoramic roads, mythical waterfalls, and breathtaking viewpoints, every turn offers a new perspective.
However, yes, we do have a small reservation from our perspective.
The fjord attracts an enormous number of tourists and cruise ships, and as expected, the tiny village turns into a sardine can, which is a real shame. So, for our part, we decided not to spend more than half a day there to escape the crowds.
In fact, to summarize, we advise you to avoid areas that host cruise ships: you have no idea how many tourists just one of them holds!! It’s mind-boggling!
Before leaving: Navigating the Geirangerfjord is a memorable experience.
Several options exist:
- Kayak trips for a quieter immersion.
- Panoramic cruises departing from Geiranger.
- Ferries connecting Hellesylt for a longer crossing.
For our part, we chose the ferry! It’s the cheapest option, actually three times cheaper than a cruise for the same services (if you’re planning other trips in Northern Europe, feel free to read our review of the Direct Ferries platform)! The only difference is that it’s a one-way trip, but the advantage of the ferry is that you then avoid the mountain road packed with tourist buses!!
For us, that’s the tip to remember!
There’s no need to book your tickets in advance; we bought our crossing directly at the pier. The route taken by the ferry is the same as for the cruise, so you can enjoy the magnificent fjord and waterfalls.
The ferry is very comfortable with a cafe and a spacious lounge.
Lærdalsøyri, a stop in time
After the spectacular fjords and dizzying roads, Lærdalsøyri offers a completely different atmosphere. Here, there are no grand cliffs plunging into the water, nor crowds arriving by cruise ship, but a peaceful village known for its perfectly preserved wooden houses. Situated on the Sognefjord, Lærdalsøyri is often a discreet stop… and yet, it truly deserves the time to stop and explore.
During our visit, we appreciated this change of pace. The streets are calm, the atmosphere almost timeless, and you discover a more authentic Norway, far from the hustle and bustle of major tourist sites, and to be honest, it feels really good!
The old wooden village (Gamle Lærdalsøyri)
The main attraction remains the historic district, composed of numerous wooden houses dating from the 18th and 19th centuries.
You’ll find small shops, cafes, and hotels there. The old village faces a small, perfectly mirror-like lake; it’s absolutely sublime!
We were lucky enough to sleep there peacefully in our campervan, facing the lake, alone with the sound of the seagulls – so pleasant!
Near the village, the Wild Salmon Centre offers surprisingly modern architecture and exhibitions on local nature and Norwegian rivers.
It’s a quick but interesting visit to better understand the region’s ecosystem, especially if you’re traveling with curious children.
